Serra de São José
Upon arriving in Tiradentes, visitors are swiftly entranced by the breathtaking beauty of Serra de São José, which carries the city's old name: “São José del-Rei”. This majestic mountain range holds the distinction of being the site where the first gold nuggets and other precious metals were discovered, marking the onset of a century-long mining era. The mountains also provided a rich source of mineral quartzite, which was skillfully utilized by enslaved individuals in the construction of Tiradentes’ pavements.
Beyond its historical significance, Serra de São José is a vital cultural, archaeological, and ecological asset to the region. Stretching across an expanse of 15 km², it spans the municipalities of Tiradentes, Coronel Xavier Chaves, Prados, Santa Cruz de Minas, and São João del-Rei. Within its borders, two distinct ecosystems thrive: the lush Atlantic Forest and the diverse Cerrado, each boasting numerous springs and cascading waterfalls, including the scenic Mãe-D'Água Forest. In the 1970s, efforts to preserve this natural treasure began in earnest, culminating in the establishment of the São José Environmental Preservation Area (APA São José) in 1990. The primary goal of the APA is to mitigate the adverse impacts of mining, deforestation, and other forms of environmental degradation, while simultaneously safeguarding the region's precious water resources, diverse flora, and wildlife.
Matriz de Santo Antônio e a Serra de São José. Miguel Aun, década de 1930. Acervo digital Olinto Rodrigues dos Santos Filho, disponível no Facebook. Livro “Tiradentes, cidade singular e romântica”, 2019.
Tourism in the Mountains
Serra de São José serves as the picturesque backdrop to Tiradentes, a significant tourist destination. Ecotourism activities such as swimming in waterfalls, hiking, and cycling abound in the area. Notable among the region's main trails are Mangue, Carteiro and Travessia. The Serra also boasts viewpoints and natural attractions, including the Bom Despacho Waterfall and the Mangue Waterfall. The biodiversity of the Serra is remarkable, serving as a habitat for several species of dragonflies. To protect these insects, the State Refuge of Wildlife Dragonflies of Serra de São José was established in 2004. This refuge is home to 55% of the dragonflies found in Minas Gerais.
Clarice Flores, 2024. Acervo Agência de Iniciativas Cidadãs – AIC.
Clarice Flores, 2024. Acervo Agência de Iniciativas Cidadãs – AIC.
Rio das Mortes, storyteller
Rio das Mortes follows the railway and runs at 100 meters from Tiradentes Station. These waters have been the backdrop to remarkable historical events and have witnessed centuries of daily life unfolding along its banks. The gentle murmur of its current whispers tales from different moments of the past, offering us insights into the rich history of this place. Come and discover some of the stories that Rio das Mortes has to share!
The Gold Era
Exploitation of gold in Minas Gerais was one of the most significant periods of the Brazilian colonial era. In São José del-Rei, now known as Tiradentes, the gold rush occurred at the beginning of the 18th century.
“Tiradentes' main asset in the 18th century was its readily accessible surface gold. This is why there's a church here named Church of Saint Anthony of Hominy, named after the corn kernel-sized nuggets found. The wealth led to the development of the city center only, which remains preserved today. The surrounding neighborhoods were wilderness back then, dotted sporadically with houses and farms. Actual development was centralized; driven by numerous slaves extracting substantial quantities of gold. After gold resources were exhausted, the town became frozen in time.”
João Rosa da Silva Filho, resident of Tiradentes and former employee of Fábrica Cerâmica Progresso Industrial Ltda (Industrial Progress Ceramics Factory), a prominent ceramics factory in the region.
The End of the Golden Years
By the late 18th century, signs of depletion in precious stone reserves were evident. As the 19th century dawned, many who had prospered from mining moved to the Paraíba Valley in São Paulo to switch to coffee cultivation. This transition reshaped São José's economy to focus on agriculture and livestock. Efforts to revitalize the economy with textile factories and the introduction of the British-owned General Mining Association failed to yield success. Tiradentes remained stagnant for decades, with not even the arrival of the railroad in 1881 revitalizing the local economy. The economic decline of Tiradentes continued until the mid-20th century.
VISTA PARCIAL DA CIDADE, 1921. J.B. Ramalho, sem data. Livro A Matriz de Santo Antônio em Tiradentes. Acervo IPHAN, 2011.
Ghost Town
As employment opportunities dwindled, many residents were forced to leave Tiradentes, with São João del-Rei becoming a primary destination. This period saw numerous homes and grand mansions either abandoned or left to fall into ruins. This abandonment was one of the reasons behind the designation of Tiradentes’ historical core as a protected architectural and urban heritage site in 1938 by the National Historical and Artistic Heritage Service (SPHAN), following the visit by São Paulo’s modernist artists. Unlike Tiradentes, São João del-Rei did not face economic stagnation after precious metals were depleted. It evolved into a vital hub for manufacturing and distributing goods and food, already noted for its economic dynamism by the early 18th century and serving as an important trading post between Minas Gerais and the court in Rio de Janeiro.
“Life is slow in Tiradentes. Here, you won't find streets lit up with dazzling lights, lively parties, or the hustle and bustle of industry and commerce. It's a place where life seems scarce, where the quiet streets whisper of decay. Unless our leaders act swiftly to preserve our traditional town, all that will remain of this historic monument are ruins upon ruins. Soon, the only sounds will be the groans of collapsing walls and the lament of traditions lost.”
José Bellini dos Santos, 1941, Monograph Tiradentes: Brazilian National Census Service.
“In the 1920s, the perception of modernists about towns in Minas Gerais, including Tiradentes, sparked a movement towards preservation and official recognition. This ignited broader debates about building a national identity, leading to the protective designation of Tiradentes' Architectural and Urbanistic Ensemble in 1938. At that time, the town's buildings were deteriorating, either due to lack of maintenance capability or lack of awareness of the importance of preservation and restoration, which is recognized today. "
José Maurício dos Santos, institutional assistant at the IPHAN office in Tiradentes.
CASARIO NA RUA DA CÂMARA COM TORRES DA MATRIZ DE SANTO ANTÔNIO AO FUNDO. W. J. Craig, 1948. Livro Tiradentes Minas Gerais Imagens, IPHAN, 2010.
Ceramics and Silver Bring Back Hope
The expansion of Brazil's railway network and innovations in civil construction catalyzed the emergence of industrial economies in remote areas, including Tiradentes.
After the EFOM Railway reached the town, it saw the establishment of raw material extractions and factories focused on construction materials. Near the railway station, two ceramics factories and a lime factory thrived. Kaolin, used in making porcelain, paints, and cement, was mined from the nearby Serra de São José and processed close to the station.
Between the 1950s and 1960s, the city's economy received an additional boost from the production of silver jewelry, attracting numerous artisans and stimulating the local economy.
However, with the intensification of Brazilian industrialization and the emergence of larger, more efficient factories that centralized production at lower costs, these smaller local productions became unsustainable.
Locomotiva se aproxima da Estação Tiradentes; à esquerda da linha, a Fábrica Cerâmica Progresso Industrial Ltda. Ramiro Nascimento, 1981. Acervo pessoal.
Locomotiva em frente à Estação Tiradentes; à direita da linha há algumas edificações, dentre elas o depósito de caulim. Ramiro Nascimento, 1981. Acervo pessoal.
“In my mother's house, all women and men crafted little bracelets, typically adorned with tiny silver fruits like pineapples and avocados. Everyone wanted one. They were made of nickel silver, but we told customers it was real silver. People traveled from afar to buy them, and those who made them often ended up with eyesight problems from working by lamplight to create those chains and bracelets.”
João Bosco Barbosa, retired, son of the head of São João del-Rei Station.
“The ceramic factory used to make tiles, bricks, and such. At that time, it employed around a hundred people. There was a sand quarry where they extracted sand from the mountains for making glass and ceramics. And there was kaolin too, all extracted from the mountains. Today, none of those operations are running anymore.”
João Rosa da Silva Filho, resident of Tiradentes and former employee of Fábrica Cerâmica Progresso Industrial Ltda (Industrial Progress Ceramics Factory), a prominent ceramics factory in the region.
Tourism and the Tourist Train
From the 1960s to the 1970s, Tiradentes evolved into a tourist destination celebrated for its architecture, culture, and natural settings. Initiatives to restore abandoned houses and mansions were set in motion. Organizations like Sociedade Amigos de Tiradentes (Friends of Tiradentes’ Society), and influential figures such as Yves Gomes Ferreira Alves, the regional director of TV Globo in Minas Gerais, championed the preservation of historic buildings. The Roberto Marinho Foundation played a significant role, launching numerous restoration and revitalization projects across the city. The production of soap operas, series, cultural exhibits, and festivals also played a critical role in boosting Tiradentes’ tourist appeal. Since 1985, the steam train has been a key attraction, linking São João del-Rei with Tiradentes. As of 2001, the city is part of the Estrada Real tourist route. However, gentrification remains a concern, with longtime residents being pushed from the city center to its outskirts due to rising property prices.
CONJUNTO ARQUITETÔNICO E URBANÍSTICO NA RUA DIREITA, COM A SERRA DE SÃO JOSÉ AO FUNDO. G. Ferrez, 1948. Livro Tiradentes Minas Gerais Imagens, IPHAN, 2010.
“Tiradentes has always been attractive for its grand mansions, churches, fountains, and museums, but what it needed was better marketing. Then Yves Alves, a director from Globo Minas, moved here. He's since passed away and is buried at the cemetery of the Santo Antônio Church. He really championed Tiradentes and effectively marketed it. There was a time when it felt like Globo's backyard here, with numerous soap operas being produced, such as 'Maria Moura,' 'Rabo de Saia,' and 'Hilda Furacão.“
João Rosa da Silva Filho, resident of Tiradentes and former employee of Fábrica Cerâmica Progresso Industrial Ltda (Industrial Progress Ceramics Factory), a prominent ceramics factory in the region.
